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Stepping into The Leopard at des Artistes on a balmy summer evening feels like stepping into a time capsule, albeit one infused with the vibrant energy of a modern Italian trattoria. Gone is the dimly lit, almost melancholic ambiance of the former Café des Artistes. In its place, owners Gianfranco and Paula Sorrentino, the masterminds behind the beloved Il Gattopardo, have orchestrated a stunning transformation, breathing new life into this Upper West Side institution.
A Feast for the Senses: From Somber Hues to Sun-Kissed Walls
The first thing that strikes you is the light. Where once shadows danced in the corners, sunlight now streams through expansive windows, illuminating the space with a cheerful glow. The iconic Howard Chandler Christy murals, once veiled in a haze of cigarette smoke, have been painstakingly restored, their vibrant colors and playful nymphs now captivating diners with renewed vigor. Gone are the heavy carpets, replaced with elegant stone floors that lend an air of understated sophistication. The overall effect is one of airy spaciousness, a far cry from the intimate, almost hushed atmosphere of its predecessor.
But the metamorphosis is more than just cosmetic. It’s a complete sensory experience. The air, once thick with the scent of nostalgia and perhaps a hint of neglect, now buzzes with the tantalizing aroma of garlic, basil, and slow-simmered sauces. The murmur of conversation, punctuated by the clinking of glasses and the occasional burst of laughter, creates a symphony of urban conviviality. It’s clear that The Leopard at des Artistes is not just a restaurant; it’s a gathering place, a microcosm of New York’s vibrant social tapestry.
A Culinary Love Letter to Southern Italy
The menu, much like the restaurant itself, is a celebration of simple, rustic Italian fare, with a focus on the sun-drenched flavors of Sardinia and Sicily. Chef Vito Gnazzo, who also helms the kitchen at Il Gattopardo, demonstrates a masterful command of Southern Italian cuisine, transforming fresh, seasonal ingredients into dishes that are both comforting and refined.
Take, for instance, the burrata appetizer. This seemingly simple dish is elevated to new heights with the use of exceptionally creamy burrata, sourced from a local artisan cheesemaker. Paired with juicy, vine-ripened tomatoes and a drizzle of fragrant olive oil, it’s a celebration of summer on a plate. The sweetness of the cheese, the tang of the tomatoes, and the subtle pepperiness of the olive oil harmonize beautifully, creating a symphony of flavors that dance on your palate.
For those seeking a more substantial starter, the grilled octopus is a must-try. Tender, smoky octopus tentacles are served alongside melt-in-your-mouth soft potatoes, all dressed in a light lemony dressing. The octopus is cooked to perfection, its exterior slightly charred, its interior tender and flavorful. The potatoes, infused with the flavors of the octopus and the tangy dressing, provide the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the seafood.
Pastas That Sing with the Soul of Italy
No Italian meal is complete without pasta, and The Leopard at des Artistes does not disappoint. The pasta dishes are where Chef Gnazzo’s artistry truly shines. The bucatini with sardines, fennel, and raisins is a revelation. The bucatini, cooked al dente, is coated in a rich, flavorful sauce made with fresh sardines, fennel, and a touch of sweetness from the raisins. The combination of flavors is unexpected yet harmonious, the saltiness of the sardines balanced by the sweetness of the raisins and the subtle anise flavor of the fennel.
For a more traditional pasta experience, the chitarra with cherry tomato sauce and basil is a classic for a reason. The chitarra, a type of spaghetti made with a special guitar-like instrument, is cooked to perfection, its texture firm yet yielding. The sauce, made with sweet, ripe cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, and a touch of garlic, is the epitome of Italian simplicity. It’s a dish that proves that sometimes, the simplest things in life are truly the best.
Main Courses: A Celebration of Simplicity and Flavor
While the appetizers and pastas are certainly noteworthy, the main courses at The Leopard at des Artistes are equally impressive. The swordfish, lightly breaded and pan-fried, is a testament to the beauty of letting high-quality ingredients speak for themselves. The fish is cooked to flaky perfection, its delicate flavor enhanced by a simple dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, oregano, and parsley. It’s a dish that’s both elegant and satisfying.
For meat lovers, the grilled rib-eye for two is a must-order. This massive steak, aged to perfection, is grilled over an open flame, its exterior crusty and charred, its interior juicy and flavorful. It’s served with a generous portion of crispy fries and a sprig of rosemary, its aroma filling the air with the promise of a truly decadent dining experience.
A Sweet Ending to a Memorable Meal
No Italian meal is complete without a sweet ending, and The Leopard at des Artistes does not disappoint. The espresso granita is the perfect way to cleanse your palate after a rich, flavorful meal. The intense coffee flavor of the granita is balanced by a touch of sweetness, making for a refreshing and invigorating end to your dining experience.
For a more decadent dessert, the berries with zabaglione is a must-try. Fresh, seasonal berries are served with a generous dollop of zabaglione, a classic Italian custard made with egg yolks, sugar, and sweet wine. The zabaglione is light and airy, its sweetness balanced by the tartness of the berries. It’s a dessert that’s both elegant and satisfying, the perfect way to end a memorable meal.
More Than Just a Meal: An Experience to Savor
The Leopard at des Artistes is more than just a restaurant; it’s an experience. From the moment you step through the door, you’re transported to a world of warmth, hospitality, and culinary excellence. It’s a place where you can gather with friends and family to celebrate life’s special moments, or simply to enjoy a delicious meal in a beautiful setting.
Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or simply looking for a memorable dining experience, The Leopard at des Artistes is sure to impress. With its stunning transformation, its focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients, and its commitment to culinary excellence, The Leopard at des Artistes is a welcome addition to the Upper West Side dining scene.
Further Culinary Explorations:
- Eataly NYC: Immerse yourself in the world of Italian cuisine at this sprawling marketplace and restaurant complex.
- The Institute of Culinary Education: Expand your culinary horizons with a cooking class or baking course at this renowned culinary school.
- The James Beard Foundation: Explore the world of American cuisine through the lens of this prestigious culinary organization.
