Monkey Bar NYC: A Restaurant Review – From Exclusive Club to Gracious Dining

5/5 - (1 vote)

Hey everyone, Emma here! As a food and lifestyle blogger, I’m always on the lookout for restaurants that offer a delightful experience, combining delicious food with a welcoming atmosphere. Recently, I had the pleasure of dining at the iconic Monkey Bar in NYC, and let me tell you, it was quite a journey back in time with a modern twist!

This legendary establishment has seen its fair share of transformations over the years. Once known as an exclusive haunt for the city’s elite, it has gracefully transitioned into a more inclusive and approachable dining destination.

Today, I’m excited to share my experience and delve into what makes Monkey Bar a must-visit for both longtime New Yorkers and curious visitors.

A Glimpse into Monkey Bar’s Storied Past

Nestled inside the historic Hotel Elysée on the East Side, Monkey Bar exudes an undeniable aura of old New York glamour. Stepping inside, you’re greeted by a warmly lit dining room adorned with playful brass monkeys, each capturing a different human emotion. The centerpiece is an impressive Edward Sorel mural, a vibrant tapestry weaving together scenes from New York’s golden age.

Monkey Bar’s history is as captivating as its decor. In 2009, Graydon Carter, the renowned editor of Vanity Fair, spearheaded its revival, envisioning it as a sophisticated clubhouse for the city’s movers and shakers. While the initial iteration drew in the crowds, it eventually underwent a transformation under the guidance of restaurateur Ken Friedman (known for The Spotted Pig and The Breslin).

A Transformation Led by Culinary Visionaries

Mr. Friedman, with his keen understanding of the evolving culinary landscape, brought in a team of talented individuals to breathe new life into Monkey Bar. Damon Wise, formerly of Craft, took the helm as executive chef, introducing a contemporary menu that replaced the dated classics. Belinda Chang, previously at The Modern, was entrusted with curating the wine list and overseeing the dining room, while cocktail connoisseur Julie Reiner (of Flatiron Lounge and Clover Club fame) was brought on board to design the cocktail program.

This dynamic team has successfully shed the restaurant’s former exclusivity, creating a space that feels both refined and relaxed. Gone are the days of impossible reservations and a members-only vibe. Today, Monkey Bar welcomes guests with open arms (and readily available reservations, even on OpenTable!).

Monkey Bar - NYC - Restaurant Review - The New York Times

A Culinary Journey Through Damon Wise’s Menu

Chef Wise’s menu at Monkey Bar is a testament to his culinary prowess, showcasing a deep understanding of flavor profiles and a commitment to using high-quality ingredients. While some dishes might appear intricate at first glance, they are ultimately rooted in simplicity and a focus on letting the ingredients shine.

Here are some of the highlights from my dining experience:

  • Parker House Rolls: The meal began with a delightful surprise—a skillet brimming with warm, buttery Parker House rolls, generously sprinkled with coarse salt. These pillowy rolls, reminiscent of those served at The John Dory, were so good that we couldn’t resist ordering a second helping!

  • Escargot with Lardo and Fennel: This dish was a revelation! The escargots were cooked to perfection, their delicate flavor enhanced by the richness of the lardo and the subtle anise notes of the fennel. The crowning glory was a soft-cooked egg nestled on top, its runny yolk transforming the dish into a symphony of textures and tastes.

  • Braised Pork Belly: This dish was a masterclass in balancing contrasting flavors and textures. The pork belly, incredibly tender and flavorful, was complemented by the crispy fried oysters and a subtle kick from the Hatch Chili kimchi.

  • Nantucket Bay Scallops: These scallops were a true testament to the quality of ingredients used at Monkey Bar. Sweet, succulent, and bursting with flavor, they were simply prepared to allow their natural taste to shine.

  • Foie Gras Torchon: This dish was pure indulgence. The foie gras was incredibly rich and smooth, served with perfectly toasted brioche. It was a dish that left me wanting more.

While the menu features more complex dishes like raw yellowfin tuna with smoked mushroom and cured hamachi with chanterelles, I was particularly drawn to the simpler yet equally satisfying options.

  • Smoked Fettuccine with Uni and Hackleback Roe: This dish was a delightful combination of smoky, salty, and creamy flavors. The fettuccine was cooked al dente, and the uni and roe added a luxurious touch.

Main courses are equally enticing, with options like:

  • Normandy Duck: Served as both tender breast and flavorful leg, accompanied by earthy salsify, oyster mushrooms, and figs.
  • Berkshire Pork: Featuring succulent bacon-wrapped roasted loin and melt-in-your-mouth braised pork cheeks, served alongside bok choy, turnips, and shiitake ravioli.
  • Niman Ranch Beef: A double delight of tender sirloin and flavorful glazed short rib, paired with black cabbage and earthy hen of the woods mushrooms.
  • Halibut: Prepared to resemble scallops, served with hearts of palm, oyster velouté, tiny squid, and chorizo, creating a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.

And for a sweet ending, don’t miss out on the delectable desserts:

  • Beignets: Warm, fluffy, and dusted with powdered sugar, these classic treats are always a crowd-pleaser.
  • Chocolate-Hazelnut Mousse: A rich and decadent mousse with a hint of saltiness from the caramel brittle.
  • Steamed Chestnut Pudding: A seasonal delight that captures the essence of fall.
NYC restaurant reviews from Time Out New York's food critic

The Perfect Pairing: Cocktails and Wine

No meal at Monkey Bar is complete without exploring their impressive beverage program. Ms. Reiner’s cocktail menu is a testament to her creativity and expertise, featuring both classic concoctions and innovative creations.

Ms. Chang’s globally inspired wine list is equally impressive, offering a diverse selection of bottles to complement any dish. Whether you’re a seasoned wine enthusiast or prefer to leave it to the experts, Ms. Chang and her team are happy to guide you towards the perfect pairing.

Monkey Bar - NYC - Restaurant Review - The New York Times

Final Thoughts: A Timeless Classic Reimagined

Monkey Bar is more than just a restaurant; it’s an experience. From the moment you step inside, you’re transported to a bygone era of glamour and sophistication, yet the atmosphere is far from stuffy or pretentious.

The team at Monkey Bar has successfully managed to preserve the restaurant’s legacy while infusing it with a fresh perspective. It’s a testament to the fact that some things, like a good cocktail and a well-executed meal, never go out of style.

Here are some additional reasons why I highly recommend adding Monkey Bar to your dining list:

  • The Ambiance: The restaurant’s warm lighting, plush booths, and iconic monkey decor create a cozy and inviting atmosphere.
  • The Service: The staff is attentive and knowledgeable, always happy to answer questions and offer recommendations.
  • The Location: Situated in the heart of Midtown Manhattan, Monkey Bar is the perfect spot for pre-theater dining or a night out on the town.

Useful Resources:

So, the next time you’re looking for a memorable dining experience in New York City, be sure to add Monkey Bar to your list. It’s a true gem that offers a taste of the city’s rich history and culinary excellence.

keen-bhaskara

Emma: Your Trusted Expert in Food, Nutrition, and Home Décor Emma is a renowned expert in the realms of food, nutrition, and home décor. As the founder and driving force behind ThongTinLuat, Emma combines her deep-rooted passion for enhancing everyday living with a wealth of knowledge and experience. Her work is dedicated to providing the community with practical, high-quality content on food recipes, restaurant reviews, DIY home décor, and lifestyle tips, all designed to elevate the quality of life. Educational Background and Professional Experience Emma’s journey began with a strong educational foundation in Food Science and Nutrition, having earned her...

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